There aren’t many afterparties that come with a Caravaggio. But then, even at the end of a long season, there aren’t many shows as maximal as Valentino in Rome. Designer Alessandro Michele presented his autumn/winter 26 collection last night at the Palazzo Barberini, a 17th-century setting in the maison’s home city that added a fifth destination to fashion month.
But what a trip this was! Nearly two years into his tenure, after a slightly rocky start following his soaraway success at Gucci, Michele’s elaborate vision now starts to make sense. Maybe it was the spectacular backdrop, or the fact that fashion seems to have had a vibe shift away from tasteful minimalism, but his hedonistic grandeur felt joyful and very now.
With a front row of Gwyneth Paltrow, Lily Allen (who performed later) and Coleman Domingo, the Roman-born designer offered up eclectic 1980s-inspired glamour, draped and embellished, exploding with couture volumes and decorated with glittering jewellery.
Past and present beautifully collided: there was a salute to the late founder in the floor-sweeping cowl-neck red finale dress, but its rear view revealed a V-shaped cutout that dipped to the sacrum. Skirts in layer upon layer of glittering tulle were topped with sheer bodysuits, edged in silver beads, but worn with minimal make-up and unadorned hair. Belted and wrapped wide-shoulder leather jackets were paired with multi-layered chiffon trousers or lace-hemmed jeans with Rockstud pumps (yes, it’s time for a revival).
More is always more in Michele’s theatrical world – but here it felt welcome, enticing and seductive. The theme for next season is unashamedly fabulous. In the current climate, who doesn’t want to embrace that?
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